August 31-September 2
This is our most
thoroughly planned road trip ever, and still we are finding surprises along the way.
Our first, and
most pleasant, surprise is a stop at the Corning
Museum of Glass, which I fondly recall visiting on one of my family’s many educational
day trips, back when I was about twelve years old. We get an early start from
Rochester, and have plenty of time to get to Philadelphia--our next destination--so when we get near Corning we decide to make an unplanned stop at the
museum. Surprise! This is not the museum of my childhood. Not even close.
Our expectation
is to drop in for an hour or so. Four
hours fly by, and we find it hard to tear ourselves away. This is a science museum, an art museum, and
a history museum synergistically combined to create a sensory and mind-bending wonderland
for all ages.
Scale: this installation would fill our living room |
We are wowed.
This display
shows how much copper wire it takes to equal the communication capacity of one
fiber optic cable, which is slightly larger in diameter than a human hair when sheathed
for use. A scientist does a fifteen
minute demo that helps us understand how fiber optics work.
We watch a glass
blower make a vase, while her partner talks us through the process.
There are many
galleries of glass. This contemporary
fused glass piece reminds me of a quilt.
Dale Chiluly is
well represented here, of course.
There are exquisite
samples from the museum’s collection of over a thousand paperweights from all
over the world, displayed like precious jewels. A gallery takes us through the
history of glass making from ancient times to the present, with amazing
artifacts.
Tiffany glass,
ornate royal chandeliers, and intricately cut crystal party supplies--it is all
so sumptuous as to be overwhelming.
Even the gift
shop is an aesthetic treat.
We agree we
could spend all day here, and someday we will come back and do just that.
But, today, we
really do have to be on our way to Philadelphia.
Within less than
two hours of our arrival in Philadelphia, we get our second surprise. As I step out of the elevator in the Crowne
Plaza on our way to dinner, I suddenly go airborne on the polished granite floor
of the lobby. After the fall, analysis
reveals that someone fresh out of the pool dripped little puddles on the floor
while waiting for the elevator, and I have intersected badly with one of those
wet spots. I spend dinner with ice on my
ankle, but by the time we walk back across the parking lot to the hotel, it is becoming
clear that our plans for exploring Philadelphia by bike and on foot need to be
shelved.
The next morning
we check out prematurely and begin our long drive home.
Although Dick
naively thinks that he (I am not driving, due to injury) will drive all the way
home in one day, reality sinks in by late afternoon. We stop when we are tired, in the town of
Wilson, North Carolina. We have never
heard of the place--this is just a stop of convenience. But, it turns out, as is so often the case
when we randomly stop off the beaten path, this place has a few surprises in
store for us.
Back in the
early 1900s, Wilson was known as the “World’s Greatest Tobacco Market,” but today downtown Wilson is looking pretty dismal,
while a few miles out, the suburbs we
drove through look to be stuffed full of all the chain stores and restaurants
that homogenize our national landscape so that we can hardly tell one town from
another.
Wilson has a
grand plan to bring folks back downtown, and its centerpiece is the Vollis
Simpson Whirligig Park.
It is a work in
progress now, but we get the vision.
Vollis Simpson died a couple years ago, and the city has 31 of his
fanciful wind-driven sculptures that they plan to install in this park.
The effort is a seven million dollar program
with grants by all sorts of organizations, including the NEA, which has funded the
work of professional conservators and a program to train unemployed and under-employed
citizens of Wilson to repair and maintain these whimsical works of art.
After this park is
completed, the town plans to create a hip neighborhood around it, converting old tobacco warehouses into loft apartments
and trendy restaurants and shops. We
hope it works.
On the outskirts
of the urban core, we visit the Oliver Nestus Freeman Round House Museum.
Freeman was an African American mason well
known around town for his stone masonry skills, and fanciful cement
sculptures. Like many of his buildings,
this one contains a wide variety of of stones and bricks--maximizing use of found
and recycled building materials. Freeman
built this round house as a rental property for veterans returning from World
War II, and it is now a museum dedicated to tracing the history of Oliver Nestus
Freeman, his family, and other African Americans of note in Wilson. About
half of the 50,000 people in Wilson are African American--this little round house is crammed with
pictures, scrapbooks, and all sorts of artifacts that people have donated. A volunteer staffer tells us stories of
Nestus and his family, and shows us a plan for a significant addition to the
museum, since it has obviously outgrown its current home.
Okay, now we are
heading straight home, we think.
Just another roadside photo magnet |
But we can’t resist one more quick stop at the
Fort Bragg Airborne and Special Operations Museum in Fayetteville.
It dramatically traces the history of Fort Bragg's valiant
soldiers from World War II until today, through lifelike dioramas and
multi-media presentations. If not for my
injury, and our now more urgent yearning for the comforts of home, we could wander around here for quite a bit longer, too.
Dramatic atrium entry sets the theme |
One final surprise
awaits us when we return home and find that one of our air conditioning units
has stopped working. Fortunately, the
unit that covers the end of the house where our bedroom lies is pumping out the
cold air just fine.
We love our
travel adventures, but coming home to sleep in our own bed is heaven.
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