July 7, 2010
We broke the 5,000 mile mark yesterday—our odometer read 5,080 miles when we stopped at the All Seasons Inn in
On the way to the ferry to the island, we make a few stops.
Then we continue to the
Then we abandon the sight-seeing plan, as at each scenic overlook any view there might be is cloaked in fog. We have moments of hope, as the fog seems to clear somewhat, only to swirl back in again. We do get in one cliffside hike that takes us momentarily below the fog for a good view of the park's Flower Pot Rock. We snap a picture, and are on our way to someplace less foggy, we hope.
We stop for the best fish chowder ever at the Seaside Restaurant at the bottom of the hill up to the
We take an after lunch walk on the beach and explore the caves, then we are back on the road, passing the scenic little wharf in St. Martins again. Surprise! The tide has gone out while we were exploring and lunching. We take our photos all over again with the boats in low tide dry dock.
Then we are once again on our way to the Grand Manan Island Ferry, which leaves from
The ferry to Grand Manan leaves every two hours, and takes an hour and a half to get there. We had been hoping to see some pelagic birds and some whales on the ride over to the island, but our hopes are dashed by the fog. The ferry is running on radar most of the way to the island, and we are left to read our books and grab some dinner aboard.
Our hotel, the Marathon Inn, is high on a hill overlooking the town and harbor. Lexie Wilcox greets us warmly, checks us in, suggests a bunch of things we need to do while we are here, and tells us stories about the hotel and her island ancestors. The retired sea captain that owned the original hotel on this site won the annex hotel in a poker game. Then he had the hotel he won rolled down the hill to sit next to his original hotel. Now they are connected by a wide porch with lots of chairs and planters of colorful flowers. It is the quintessential Victorian seaside resort, with a definite patina of age that is charming rather than run-down.
We are on the third floor (no elevator), with a grand view of the ocean from all of our windows, as we learn when the fog clears. We also are near enough to the Swallowtail Lighthouse to hear the fog horn when the fog does not clear, which will be the case tonight. Surprisingly, we find it lulls us to sleep. Not surprisingly, the long blare and three short toots of the ferry horn upon its 7:30 am departure awakens us. This wake-up call provides our first lesson that much of
Stay tuned for our island adventures.